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Angelo Rocha meets with his team at eight in the morning to organize the day’s tasks at Quinta da Comenda, a beautiful property in São Pedro do Sul, a municipality in the Central Portuguese district of Viseu. The estate once belonged to the mother of Afonso Henriques – the first king of Portugal – and then to the Order of Malta, until 1843. The country’s first natural wine was produced here in 1987.
When Angelo’s parents acquired this 86-acre estate in the early 1980s, it was completely abandoned. They turned to old books and local sources to recover its essence. Along the way, they discovered the historical importance of the wine region of Lafões.
Today, the family cultivates 24 acres of vineyards, as well as olive trees, fruit trees, asparagus and cereals. They’ve even restored an old mill by the river, where they process flour to make their own bread. Some of their animals, including geese, goats, chickens, donkeys and several local Arouquesa cows, are left to roam freely among the vines from the end of the harvest until bud break begins in March. These creatures fertilize the land and enhance the health of the soil.
This deep connection to the land also radiates outward. The property hosts cultural events and a weekly organic farmers’ market, while offering agro-tourism accomodation. Rocha also leases space in his extensive winery to other producers. It’s hard to imagine a more collaborative and sustainable model.
However, it hasn’t been a bed of roses. The death of his parents triggered a family schism. It took three years of litigation before Angelo and one of his sisters had their right to retain ownership recognized. The wine, which is their highest value-added product, is made in one of the smallest, most unknown and mistreated regions in Portugal. Here, at one point in history, the uprooting of vineyards was even encouraged, ultimately bringing down the local cooperative.
There are just three municipalities located on the middle course of the Vouga River. They straddle the regions of Dão and Vinho Verde. All three are characterized by their granite soils, but the wines of Lafões are closer to the vibrant character of Vinho Verde. In fact, their high-acid, mineral and vibrant whites are a regular accompaniment to vitela assada (roast veal), the local dish par excellence. (...)
