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Original Article: https://www.forbes.com/sites/tomhyland/2025/01/07/nizzabarbera-at-its-most-distinctive/
The vineyards of the Nizza production zone are planted on hillsides, typically between 150 and 350 meters (490 to 1150 feet) above sea level. While sandy soils are predominant in the appellation, loam and clay soils are also present throughout the zone, while marine deposits also exist. While these soils are ideal for Barbera, as far as promoting the fresh cherry and plum fruit as well as spicy notes of oregano and tobacco, they also provide the proper balance for longevity. In some places, red soils comprised of calcareous clay are rich in iron oxides that lend a bright red color as well as impressive weight and structure to the wines.
Cellar management varies among the producers, ranging from large casks known as grandi botti (15-to 30-hectoliters in volume) to mid-size oak containers known as tonneaux (typically 500 liters) and small oak barrels of 250 liters known as barriques. Early on, there was a belief that barrique-aging was a key to the typicity of Nizza, yet some examples were too oak-laden, hiding the varietal fruit aromas of Barbera. Thankfully, most local producers have made the decision to lessen oak influence, as Stefano Chiarlo, President of the Associazione Produttori del Nizza, explains. “Generally speaking, Nizza producers are reducing the use of small and new wood; they are using more second-passage barrels or larger wood, such as 25 or 30 hectoliters.”
There are currently more than 90 members of the association, and as Chiarlo notes, an important factor of this group is the pre-tasting they do before the release of their wines. “We all test the wines before bottling. Everyone gives his impression, especially if there are some expressions that are not clean.” Chiarlo points out that this system was created by his late father Michele, “as a guide to improve the quality and specially to have the idea of Nizza wine. It’s very important for the character of the wines to be very clear.”
What are the typical characteristics of a Nizza wine? For Susanna Galandrino of La Gironda, in Nizza Monferrato, “Nizza DOCG is something special for its intensity, its complexity, its ageability, but always maintaining a great elegance and drinkability.” For Luca D’Attoma, consulting winemaker for Amistà winery in Nizza Monferrato, “the typical Nizza must have a very intense aroma of both wild berries and raspberries, as well as spicy notes … It stands out for is finesse, elegance and sense of balance. The tannins are never excessive.” Finally, for Stefano Gagliardo, proprietor of Tenuta Garetto in Agliano Terme, “It’s very important that Nizza shows an average that is high, an average that must be better and better … There’s always this savory character, this salinity, there’s always this mineral, salty touch, which is in all wines we do from Garetto; in the appellation, I think this is more of a site character.”
Every wine association in Italy seeks greater awareness of their land and products; to that end, the Nizza Associazione has proposed a structure known as UGA (Unità Geografiche Aggiuntive – Additional Geographical Units) that identifies place names – often single vineyards - in the Nizza production zone. Based on a similar system currently in use in Chianti Classico, the proposal is for 145 UGA names, and while Chiarlo doubts this many units will be approved by the minister of agriculture (he states that many Nizza producers prefer between 50 and 55 UGA names), he understands the importance of this proposal, “a more precise expression of the different terroirs,” in his words.
Slowly, Nizza has become not only a critical success, but also a wine that has found a strong market for consumers in many parts of the world. Chiarlo reports that total production is about two million bottles per year, and that Nizza is an appellation, “where we grow between ten and fifteen percent each year.
“If you think that in 2016, we were about 35 wineries and there existed about 40 labels of Nizza. Now in total, there are 100 wineries and about 170-180 labels between Nizza, Nizza Riserva and single vineyards, that gives you an idea of the progress of the Nizza appellation.”
For Galandrino, “We need the world to know that Nizza DOCG is not simply a Barbera, but it’s the best expression of a unique and incredible terroir. We have to all work together as we have until now, step by step, with the help also of journalists, wine writers, customers and importers, to let people choose a bottle of Nizza, because it’s a Nizza, and to leave them so surprised about the quality that they come here and discover us!”
📷Winery and Vineyards of Tenuta Garetto, Agliano TermeNotes on current releases of Nizza (note that while Nizza must be aged a minimum of 18 months, with six of those months in wood, Nizza riserva must be aged a minimum of 30 months, 12 of which are in wood):
Cossetti Nizza “Criveletto” 2021 - Aromas of black plum, myrtle and a hint of chocolate. Subdued wood notes, excellent complexity, very good persistence. Enjoy over the next eight to twelve years. (94)
